Rishiri Island: Hokkaido’s surprising adventure paradise

There’s a reason why Mount Rishiri is referred to as Rishirifuji. It bears an uncanny resemblance to that other classic stratovolcano, Mount Fuji, on Japan’s mainland.

As our plane flies towards Rishiri Island, fittingly named after its creator, I can see the dormant conical volcano in its lush, forest-canopied glory – all jagged edges, its profile altering and morphing as we change angles on our final approach. 

Emerging from the cabin into the fresh cool air of the island is a relief, especially after spending several hot and humid August days in Sapporo and the Shakotan Peninsula.

I’m grateful for the temperature drop, and for this opportunity to explore a little-known and even lesser-visited part of Hokkaido. There are a surprising number of things to do on Rishiri Island, and I’m ready to explore them all. Come along for the ride!

Active and adventurous things to do on Rishiri Island

Rishiri Island is a remote and tranquil destination located off the northwest coast of Hokkaido, Japan. Together with neighboring Rebun Island, Rishiri belongs to the Rishiri-Rebun-Sarobetsu National Park.

Known for its unspoiled natural beauty and majestic Mount Rishiri, the island offers visitors an opportunity to explore stunning landscapes, experience traditional Japanese culture, and enjoy a variety of outdoor activities like hiking, cycling and kayaking.

Get savings on accommodation from hostels to luxury hotels

Hike Mount Rishiri

Rishiri Island is an adventure paradise, and one of the most iconic landmarks of the island is Mount Rishiri. This extinct volcano that rises 1,721 meters above sea level. Often referred to as “Rishirifuji” due to its resemblance to Japan’s famous Mount Fuji, it is a must-visit for serious hikers. 

The full summit ascent is a full day challenging hike with steep sections and scrambles near the summit. The most popular starting point for the summit hike is from Kutsugata Port, which takes around 8-10 hours for a round trip. 

The trek passes through lush forests, alpine flowers, plants and rocky ridges. It’s an unforgettable adventure for experienced hikers, and your efforts will be rewarded with breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding sea, nearby Rebun Island and the northern coast of Hokkaido. 

Hikers are recommended to carry full gear, wear proper hiking boots, pay attention to the weather and leave early in the morning. The best time to attempt this hike is June to August.

Hiking to Mount Pon

A less intense hiking option leaves from the Rishiri Hokuroku Campsite near the coastal town of Rishirifuji. This less intense looping hiking trail is the Himenuma-Pon-yama Nature Trail. 

This trail leads to the summit of Mount Pon, 445 m above sea level, and takes less than an hour. (one way). If the weather’s bad, you can loop back on this trail after a snack break in the wood framed pergola on the trail, by the creek. You’ll know it when you see it!

Cycle around Rishiri Island

Rishiri Island’s coastal road offers a fantastic cycling experience. The island’s circumference is just 60 kilometers around, and its cycling trails and roadways are relatively flat and quiet, making it very accessible and popular and with cyclists of all levels. 

Unless you travel with your own bicycle, renting a bicycle on the island is the next best option. It allows you to explore the island at your own pace, stopping at scenic viewpoints, quiet beaches and charming fishing villages along the way. 

During my circumnavigation of the island, where I took part in the fun annual Tour of Rishiri Island cycling event, I constantly stopped to take photos of the fabulous coastal scenes, ever-changing views of Mt Rishiri, interesting volcanic rock formations, and the island’s picturesque landscape.

All told, it took about six hours to cycle around the entire island. If you’re a regular road warrior, you’ll be able to do it in two hours.

Some popular stops along the route include Senhoshi Misaki Park, famous for its unique lava formations, and Otatomari Marsh, a peaceful watershed surrounded by mountain forests.

Explore Otatomari Marsh

Otatomari Marsh, located near the southern part of the island, is a serene and scenic spot perfect for a leisurely stroll or a relaxing picnic. 

The marsh is surrounded by lush greenery and offers beautiful views of Mount Rishiri. Visitors can take a short walk along the well-maintained pathway and enjoy birdwatching from the Otatomari Observation Deck, which also provides a good vantage point for photography.

Read more > Explore Hokkaido’s charms in winter

Walk around Himenuma (Hime) Swamp

While swamp may be an unfortunate translation for an artificially created pond, Hime’s natural wetland area with a small but sturdy suspension bridge is a delightful find.

The surface of the pond often reflects Mount Rishiri on a clear day and is a lovely spot for a nature walk. The raised boardwalk path rings the swamp and takes just 20 minutes to walk through a tall forest of Sakhalin fir and black spruce trees. 

The swamp is great for birdwatching; I spotted herons, ravens and a black woodpecker. Flycatchers are also common here. 

Visit Kutsugata Cape Park

Located on the western side of Rishiri Island, this small park overlooks a lovely coastal area where you can admire rugged cliffs, the open ocean and vibrant sunsets. The park is home to a lighthouse and several walking paths that lead to nice viewpoints looking out over the Sea of Japan and Rebun Island. 

The volcanic landscape, lighthouse and the sound of crashing waves below the Kutsugata-misaki promontory make this an ideal spot for photographers and those seeking to observe local seabirds and coastal plants and flowers. The park is also popular with campers and families as kids can run around freely in the grassy areas.

Relaxing at the Rishiri Onsen

My queendom for an onsen! After a day of exploring, cycling or trekking, there’s no better way to unwind than with a visit to Rishirifuji Hot Spring Onsen. 

The hot spring bath house has both indoor and outdoor pools. It’s located at the southern end of the town of Oshidomari. You can relax while taking in views of the surrounding mountains and sea. Especially in the outdoor hot spring pool as the sun sets into the Sea of Japan.

Go sea kayaking 

For those who love water activities, sea kayaking is a popular option on Rishiri Island. Morning is best for this peaceful activity as the ocean waters are usually calm. Paddle along the coastline, explore hidden coves, and get up close to the island’s striking rock formations.

Try a sea urchin experience

If you’ve ever wondered where uni (sea urchin roe) comes from, stop at Kamui Park for a hands-on opportunity to learn about these fascinating sea creatures from local fishermen and women. 

Hokkaido is the source of most of Japan’s uni supply, as the urchins prefer the cold waters around the island. At Kamui Park, you’ll have the chance to board a fishing boat and use the specialized net the locals call “tamo” to fish for urchins. Then, enjoy the fruits of your labor by cracking open your own urchin. (It’s not easily done, trust me.) Then clean and eat the uni. It will be the freshest you’ll ever taste in your life.

The taste of the uni is briny and unique. And fyi, uni is not roe (eggs). Sea urchins are either male or female, and the uni is either gonads or ovaries. Yup.

Learn about Rishiri Kombu

There’s kombu and then there’s Rishiri Island kombu. The island’s famous dried seaweed kombu is uniquely air and sun-dried, producing some of the highest quality kombu in Japan.

Biking around the island, I noticed square patches of rocks covered by strips of sea kelp drying in the sunshine. Kombu is prized for use in making dashi, the classic Japanese broth. You can learn about seaweed and kombu at Kamui Park and go home with tasty souvenirs to make your own dashi, the best possible Rishiri souvenir.

Explore nearby Rebun Island

Rugged, remote and home to spectacular endemic flora, Rebun Island is a short (45-minute) ferry ride from Rishiri Island. You can also get to Rebun from Wakkani, on a 90-120 minute ferry, or by plane from Sapporo.

Rebun Island is referred to as the “Floating Island of Flowers.” This is due to the large number – 300 varieties – of alpine plants that bloom during the summer months, including the island’s version of rare Edelweiss, Rebun Usuyukiso.

Visitors can explore the island’s flower-filled meadows, cliffs, and forests while hiking on one of seven protected hiking trails, including the famous “Rebun Island Trekking Course.” This four-hour hike, also known as the Cape Excursion, offers spectacular views of both Rishiri and the Sea of Japan along the route and from Capes Gorota and Sukoton.

If you have the time, take a two day trip over to Rebun from Rishiri. You’ll get a flavor for this unique island and appreciate views of Rishiri-Fuji that you can’t get elsewhere.

Visit Rishiri Museum of Folklore

For a deeper understanding of the island’s history, culture, and natural environment, visit the small Rishiri Museum of Folklore. The wooden western-style building, formerly the Oniwaki Village Hall built in 1913, presents exhibits about the island’s geology, wildlife, and the traditional lifestyle of its inhabitants. 

You can learn about the indigenous Ainu people, the island’s fishing industry, and the volcanic history that shaped Rishiri’s unique landscape. It’s a good one-hour stop on a rainy day.

Savor local cuisine

While the population of Rishiri Island is small (around 5,000 inhabitants) and clustered mostly in two main towns, dining options punch above their weight.

Surrounded by the ocean, the island is famous for its seafood, particularly its high-quality sea urchin (uni) and kombu (kelp). So dining on fresh seafood is a must when visiting the island. 

Local restaurants serve a variety of dishes featuring the island’s specialties, including uni donburi (sea urchin rice bowl), fresh sashimi, and kombu-infused miso soup. 

Rishiri Ramen Miraku is a must-stop for its savoury bowls of shoyu ramen. I enjoyed a vegetarian ramen with tasty bamboo shoots, while my friend enjoyed the traditional pork-topped versions. Tip: The restaurant opens at 11 AM but you can put your name on the list outside the door earlier in the morning. Then arrive and get seated without having to wait.

Bar Tecchi is a cosy, late night sake bar in Rishiri town on the west coast of the island. It can be a bit hard to find as it’s on the second floor of a building. Look for a small signboard, climb the steps and enjoy a great selection of sake or wine and other spirits.

Two unique food finds

There are two extremely unique food experiences that I have to share. One involves a visit to the Milpis Shop where you can find a unique beverage made from lactic acid.

The owner, a former dairy farmer, makes Milpis using fresh groundwater from Rishiri. The shop also serves as a manufacturing plant. It’s tiny, with just three tables and walls decorated with photos of celebrity visitors. 

And the taste? Milpis is delicious and refreshing, and a bit of a cult craze on the island. The farmer created it from a recipe that was originally developed over 50 years ago. It’s a must try, and you leave the bottle behind as the farmer cleans and reuses it.

Scream for kombu cream

Get ready for the best Hokkaido soft serve with a kombu twist at Kitarindo. The gregarious woman owner, Chiharu Hirakawa, invented aisurishirizan, a unique ice cream sundae consisting of vanilla soft serve topped with kelp salt, small pieces of soft kelp and topped with dried sea urchin and eaten with a spoon made of kelp.  

There’s an order to eating this unique dessert, involving eating the uni and then mixing the ingredients well together with the kelp spoon. Ms Hirakawa notes that on a busy summer day, she’ll serve more than 100 of these special sundaes.

Rishiri Island is an off-the-beaten-path destination for travellers looking to explore a uniquely different region of Hokkaido and Japan. It has the perfect blend of outdoor adventure, natural beauty, and cultural experiences.

Whether you’re hiking up the majestic Mount Rishiri, cycling around the island, or simply enjoying the tranquility of its coastal landscapes, this island promises a memorable experience and chance to escape and disconnect from the hustle and bustle of city life and reconnect with nature.

Where to stay on Rishiri Island

There are quite a few ryokan in the island’s two main towns of Rishiri and Rishirfuji. I stayed in a larger established hotel, the Island Inn Rishiri, near Kutsugata Cape Park. My room was comfortable, if the décor a bit dated, but the onsen hot spring was fabulous. There is also an on-site laundry washer and dryer, as well as restaurant where we enjoyed buffet breakfast and several multi-course seafood dinners.

There’s a free airport shuttle and bikes for rent, though they’re more for cruising around town than cycling around the entire island. 

How to get to Rishiri Island

You can fly to Rishiri Island from Sapporo, either from New Chitose Airport or the much smaller regional Okadama Airport. The flight to Rishiri airport takes about 50 minutes.

You can drive to Rishiri Island via the vehicle ferry from Wakkani, the most northern point of Hokkaido. From Sapporo, the trip takes about 7 hours, including the two hour car ferry.

Pin for Later

Photos: Claudia Laroye; Pixabay

Disclosure: The write thanks KTN and Tourism Hokkaido for hosting her visit and stay on Rishiri Island. As always, her words and love of adventures in Hokkaido are honest and her own.